Restaurant Review - The Red Lion, Gloucester Green

Firstly, I have no idea why it's taken me sooooo long to review The Red Lion. I've visited a number of times with MrF and the kids for the last few years. I've bigged them up on Twitter, recommending them for full English, Rotisserie Chicken and Duck Salad. I've always found the service to be friendly and helpful; the setting stylish without being pretentious; the atmosphere pleasant and relaxed; the seating comfortable and spacious... the list kinda goes on. They even have really nice toilets, with the most amount of cubicles I've ever seen in a ladies loo!

For one reason or another, I just haven't gotten round to reviewing them. Until now.

Part of the vast Mitchells & Butler empire, The Red Lion is sister pub to The Trout in Wolvercote, The Chequers on High Street, All Bar One on High Street, The Crown in Cornmarket Street, O'Neill's on George Street, The Eagle & Child in St. Giles', The Cape of Good Hope at the bottom of Iffley Road, Browns Brasserie on Woodstock Road, The Royal Oak also on Woodstock Road, Jericho Tavern on Walton Street AND Britannia Inn on London Road! Wow, twelve of them in Oxford alone?!

This does taint things somewhat, especially when you realise a number of them share menus - The Trout and The Red Lion both fall under the same sub-brand and share a menu (though Red Lion cooks it much better); as do The Chequers, The Crown, plus Eagle & Child; The Cape of Good Hope, The Royal Oak and Jericho Tavern's menu sharing caused some controversy not that long ago when people noted some menu items priced at £1 more in North Oxford than in East Oxford.

So, with all this going on in the background - and after all my recommendations on social media - the 'steaks' were high for The Red Lion (excuse the pun). Many were non believers, having visited in a past life and having a bad experience. So, thank Christ, it turned out to be good. Like REALLY good!

I'm throwing the rules out the window here and going straight for the conclusion - this was possibly the best roast dinner I've had in Oxford so far, bar my own (obvs). I had help, so we sampled not one, but three types of roast on the day and all were bang on - delicious and perfectly cooked meat, gorgeous proper gravy, HUGE home made Yorkshire puddings, tasty roasties, plus all the condiments required - I do hate when correct condiments are not available - plus a nice bit of crackling for the pork. 

Spit Roast Chicken, Apricot Stuffing & Bread Sauce £12.95

Roast Pork Loin, Sage Stuffing, Roasted Apple & Crackling £11.95

Roast Rib of Beef & Yorkshire Puddings £13.95

Given the quality of everything, the prices seemed really rather reasonable. So, with such great food, why the hell is it always so quiet when I visit? Who knows. Though maybe it's better that way, I'm always guaranteed to get a good table!

Overall score: 8.5

The Red Lion
14 Gloucester St

Oxford

OX1 2BN
Twitter: @RedLionOxford
Facebook: @redlion.oxford1
Website: www.redlionoxford.co.uk
Phone: 01865 726255

Restaurant Review - The Marsh Harrier

Having visited The Marsh Harrier a few months ago, and thoroughly enjoying some tasty bar snacks, it was about time I revisited - this time to sample their roast dinners. The Marsh is always a popular drinking pub for MrF en route home from work, and I can see why. It's a comfortable pub, recently redecorated in soothing, homely, Farrow & Ball'esque colours; the staff seem friendly, as do the customers; it has a nice garden; and it's literally equidistant between our house and MrF's office.

So, having covered them previously, I won't launch into full review mode, but what I will do is give you a little insight into recent events, and answer that all important question - can they cook a good roast?

After my earlier review, I was invited along to a 'tasting day' - nothing formal, but an opportunity for the kitchen to show the pub's customers it's new menu. On arrival, we grabbed a seat in the garden and waited patiently to see what the plan was. Then we waited some more. And some more. Before long it became apparent that things were a little haphazard. Waitresses were bringing out large, cheap looking, disposable platters (not a great look) and delivering them to seemingly random tables. When a platter finally made it's way to our table for sampling, we were pleased to see a good selection of items, though none of which stuck in my memory (other than the overly dry mini burgers and quite dull potato wedges). The odd thing was though that the platter before us didn't match up with the sampling menu on the tables. Disorganisation seemed to be the theme of the day. Since then, as I understand it, the chef has moved on and someone else has donned the chef's whites - the menu remains and is being cooked perfectly well. As to better organisation, I cannot complain so far.

Anyway, on to the Sunday Roast! I ordered the Topside of Beef - quelle surprise! At 10.95 it was good. Ok, I can expand more - it was really good. The meat was delicious and of decent quality, as were the vegetables. In fact I'd say I was pretty happy with the entire plateful - until I spotted the 'cook from frozen' yorkie *sigh*. I know they have a really small kitchen, so maybe it's impossible to get a big stack of yorkies prepped alongside all the other required elements, but that styrofoam texture of a frozen yorkie is always a disappointment. Don't let that be the overarching impression though, as the meat really was very tasty, and cooked well.

Topside of Beef

Hot Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Ice Cream

For dessert, I'd gone for the high-risk Hot Chocolate Fondant with Vanilla Ice Cream (4.50). How many fondants die the death of an overcooked centre? Millions? Billions..? Trillions...!? Unfortunately this one fared no better - dry throughout with a slightly less dry middle. The texture was actually quite unpleasant, so much so that I didn't even finish half of it. A shame really, because I know they do some great dishes here. Stick to the bar snacks and meat and you won't go far wrong, but I'd definitely steer clear of the puds - both of the Yorkshire and dessert variety. 

Overall Score: 6

The Marsh Harrier
40 Marsh Road
Oxford
Oxfordshire
OX4 2HH
Twitter: N/A
Facebook: @marshharrieroxford
Website: www.marshharriercowley.co.uk
Phone: 01865 718225

Restaurant Review - The Rickety Press

Last year I published a list of all the places I wanted to try and review the year ahead. The Rickety Press was in that list. For one reason or another, it's taken me almost a whole year to get there. Yes they were shut for a little while as they extended the restaurant. Yes I'd heard a couple of disappointing recounts of the food. And yes I'm often put off by the painful parking in Jericho. But ultimately, I'd say it was a fear that it wouldn't live up to my expectations - and those are the reviews I hate to write.

Oh well, here goes.

Based on a side road off Walton Street in Jericho, chalk-blue gastro pub The Rickety Press is half sister to The Rusty Bicycle in East Oxford. Rickety has the same mismatched wooden tables you'll find in any pub of this ilk, with the same love of great typography as seen at it's sibling. The décor and styling is warm and inviting, seemingly designed to make you feel at home in some kind of family room or snug, with old leather-bound books adorning the bar and bookcases.

I was a little early, and had to inform the waiting staff we had gained an unexpected guest, so required a larger table - which they handled incredibly well, showing us to a table at the rear of the newly extended dining room.

Having decided in advance I was having the roast beef, I was thrown by the lure of Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (£8.50). Could I manage a starter and a roast dinner? Stupid question, bring on the parfait! And maybe some bread and olives too (£3.50), just to keep MiniF occupied.

When the bread arrived, there was no way MiniF was going to get much of a look in. Pillowy soft centre with a firm crusty exterior, the bread was delicious on it's own, though the addition of balsamic with olive oil for dipping never disappoints. I had to reign myself it so as to not fill up prior to the meal.

MrF had selected the Salt Beef Salad (£6.50), which would have been my second choice. Served shredded and tousled with salad leaves, Lancashire cheese, quails eggs and green beans, it looked appealing, though it didn't sit well with MrF. I'd love to tell you how it tasted, but he'd polished it off before I'd even looked up from my foie gras - hopefully MrF's description of 'meh' will suffice(?!).

Salt Beef Salad

Our +1 had chosen Potted Smoked Cornish Mackerel (£7), which is delivered in a neat little kilner jar (maybe they could buy in bulk with The Punter), alongside pickles and toast. With horseradish and capers mixed in, there was a delightful sharpness cutting through the rich, smooth pate.

Potted Smoked Cornish Mackerel

The parfait? Well, I'm always a fan. Buttery, rich, creamy, almost fruity. I know it's often served with toasted brioche, which it was here, but I find that far too rich and crumbly, so dived into the remaining bread from the start of the meal - which was perfect. I didn't manage to finish the plate, but a certain husband of mine was on hand to lend a hand.

Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait

God knows why, but MrF had ordered the Roast Chicken for main (£15). I do love a bit of roast chicken, but we eat it often enough at home to never bother ordering it in a restaurant - I don't really see chicken as a restaurant meal anyway, there are far more interesting meats to eat. Anyway, the chicken. It turned out to be a nightmare. I'll elaborate... While our +1 and I were happily tucking into our beef, MrF had to send his chicken back not once, but twice, because it was unacceptably pink at the bone. By this point, at least 25 minutes had passed and everyone else had almost finished their meals, so MrF passed on his main and I passed him mine to finish.

Roast Chicken

The handling of 'chicken-gate' was initially a little blasé, with the waiter taking the dish away and not returning to offer any word of a returning dish until it arrived 20 minutes later, though after the second complaint the waitress on hand was more attentive and apologetic, explaining that the meat had reached the perfect temperature. Unfortunately on this occasion, and for the diners on our neighbouring table, their meat thermometer must have been faulty that day as three chickens on two tables were returned within the space of an hour - seems they weren't learning any lessons fast.

With chicken in particular, MrF is a big fan of cooking it until just enough, I'm usually the one wanting it cooked a tiny bit longer, but this was pushing the limit even for him.

Slow Roast Sirloin of Beef

It was a tale of two halves with the meat though, as my Slow Roast Sirloin of Beef (£16.50) was spot on - perfectly pink and tantalisingly tasty, with a jug of extra gravy (winning!), a nice big yorkie, parsnips, decent roasties and silky celeriac puree. Delicious.

On requesting the bill, the waitress advised the two roast beefs had been taken off the total, as a gesture of goodwill. I'd expected them to offer a complimentary pudding or such, so was impressed that they'd ultimately exceeded expectations, though MrF's rumbling tummy may not have agreed.

In the end, it was the chicken and initially casual complaint handling that let them down. 

Overall score: 6.5 due to the issues, though I'd score the Roast Beef alone 8

The Rickety Press

67 Cranham Street
Oxford
OX2 6DE
Twitter: @RicketyPress
Facebook: @TheRicketyPress
Website: www.thericketypress.com
Phone: 01865 424 581

Restaurant Review - The Punter, Osney Island, Oxford

Just behind Botley Road, sitting on the banks of The Thames, amidst a quaint residential area of Oxford known as Osney Island, sits The Punter. An old, family friendly, traditional looking pub, with a small patio garden to the rear.

Having heard good things, I called to book a Sunday afternoon table for the Foodie family and some visiting guests. With parking in the area limited to residents, your best bet is one of the car parks near the train station, or one of the nearby retail parks. Either way, you'll need to walk the final 10 minutes or so. Not such a bad thing pre and post pub lunch.

With my search for the best Oxfordshire Sunday lunch in full swing, I was hopeful that The Punter could be a contender. We were disappointed, however, to see no roasts on the menu - if there were any available, we certainly weren't made aware of them. 

We didn't feel too disappointed though, as there were enough items of interest on the menu to distract us from our initial goal. The homemade Scotch egg and French onion soup were very tempting, as was the goose and pork terrine, though I ultimately settled on the potted mackerel (£5) to start. For main there was zero doubt, I was sucked straight in by the venison steak with dauphinoise  potato, braised red cabbage, greens and jus. MrF selected the chilli con carne with rice and garlic chive creme fraiche (£8) for main, while joining me in the potted mackerel starter.

We were seated in a corner of the pub, right beside the back door and an open lit fire, which did well in counteracting the occasional blast of cold air as diners nipped out for the odd ciggy. The pub itself is pretty rustic inside, certainly more 'old money' than 'new money' in style, but maybe without vast amounts of the actual money. With weathered wooden furniture and walls a mixture of deep blue and creamy vanilla, the décor lent itself well to the riverside location, while vintage mirrors, framed pictures and sash windows nodded to the buildings Victorian heritage. 

Potted mackerel with pickled cucumber 

After a perfectly reasonable wait, our starters arrived, served up on pretty rim patterned plates that had me dreaming of afternoon tea; the potted mackerel served in cute little kilner style jars beside a ramekin of salad leaves and pickled cucumber, plus a small portion of toasted sourdough. Small being the operative word. I had just enough bread (I could have done with one more slice to fit the measure of mackerel), while MrF was done-over somewhat in receiving one slice less than me.

Portion size aside, the potted mackerel was delicious - well-seasoned and well-balanced, with the spices and lemon juice enhancing, rather than overshadowing, the star of the show. A little stingy on the bread, but a good start nonetheless.

Along came our mains, my Venison steak looking impressive, though more like chunks of venison than a single steak which I had imagined. MrF's chilli looked no more or less than you would imagine of a chilli, while one of our dining companion's beer battered haddock and triple cooked chips (£10) looked utterly jaw-dropping - a whopping big piece of golden battered fish, atop the most tantalising looking chunky chips. Now I'm much more of a fries gal generally, but I do love a good dark golden crisp on my chips - and these looked perfect! On stealing a chip excitedly, I was sadly let down to find a distinct lack of flavour, though I imagine once doused in vinegar and smothered in tartare sauce they may cut the mustard.

Beer battered haddock and triple cooked chips

Handsome looking chips!

MrF was also grumbling, finding his chilli lacking punch, and not just in the heat stakes. But enough of other people's food, my venison was awaiting. Accompanied by two of my favourite side dishes - dauphinoise and red cabbage, this was a dish which should be right up my street. On digging in, I was again, slightly let down. The meat was rare, which I can handle, but bordering on too rare in parts. The jus and braised red cabbage were both pleasant, though the dauphinoise was approaching bland, with a shortage of both seasoning and flavour.

Venison steak, dauphinoise potato, braised red cabbage, greens and jus

I feel a pang of remorse reporting my findings, as I had high hopes for The Punter. I'd heard positive feedback and was expecting to be impressed, which I was, a bit. However the overwhelming feeling on leaving was one of  disappointment. I'm not wondering how soon I can return. I'd stop by if I was in the area, or visiting people nearby; but would I make an effort to go there? Not really. Would MrF return? Only for their beer - which he said was excellent!

Overall score: 6.5

The Punter
7 South Street

Osney Island

Oxford

OX2 0BE

Facebook: N/ATwitter: N/A
Website: www.thepunteroxford.co.uk
Phone: 01865 248832

Nothing Like a Sunday Roast

Published in Dec/Jan edition of Vale Life Magazine

Dec-13 / Jan-14 Edition of Vale Life

It’s that time of year again - the chill in the air, the pretty autumn leaves, heating goes on and winter coats come out. Don’t worry though, I have the perfect solution - get yourself down the pub, grab a table near a roaring fire and tuck into a glorious Sunday Roast!

I'm all for salads in summer, but you can’t fail to get excited by the promise of giant Yorkshire puddings, crispy roast potatoes and blushing beef, all smothered in delicious gravy and topped off with a dollop of horseradish. Makes me drool just thinking about it.

This winter, I'm on the hunt for the best local Sunday lunch. But what goes into making the ultimate roast?

Well, let’s be clear, the star of the show HAS to be the meat – well-seasoned, great quality and cooked to perfection (if lamb or beef, it had better be pink). Second in the pecking order are golden, crunchy-on-the-outside, fluffy-on-the-inside, roast potatoes. No ready-made, cook from frozen rubbish; proper, homemade roasties.

Next up is the Yorkie (and yes, size DOES matter), closely followed by decent homemade gravy. The Foodie household does like a generous serving of gravy, so no scrimping! Last but not least, a nice selection of veggies and condiments; I can’t eat a roast without its accompanying sauce. Well, I can, but I’ll moan about it.

So, where better to go to start my search than The Thatch in Thame, recent runner-up for Best Sunday Lunch in the South, in the Observer Food Monthly Awards (along with Best Restaurant and Best Place to Drink). It’s always great to hear of a local business earning recognition, so MrF and I popped along to check it out for ourselves.

 With its higgledy-piggledy beams and thatched roof, The Thatch looks like it’s straight out of a fairy tale - pop inside though and you’ll find a modern but cosy gastropub. I pleased to say I can vouch for the quality of their roasts – the pork and beef were tender, delicious and perfectly cooked; the roasties some of the nicest I've tasted for a while (bar my own, obviously); the gravy ample and flavoursome, and yes, they had condiments. Wait, did I forget to mention the Yorkies…? They were GIANTS!

With just enough room for dessert, we topped off the meal by stuffing our faces with a selection of fabulous puds – the crème brûlée and chocolate torte were especially good, leading to a battle of the dessert spoons.

Exceptionally good quality beef and towering Yorkies

Wouldn't you though...?

The Thatch is now serving its new autumn menu, featuring steak supplied by butchers Aubrey Allen (holders of a Royal Warrant), plus salad and veg from locally based Bucksum Salads, who also picked up a recent award for Best Local Farmer. Go check it out for yourself if you get the chance… just make sure you leave room for one of those delicious puddings.

(The Thatch, 29-10 Lower High Street, Thame OX9 2AA. Tel 01844 214340. www.thethatchthame.co.uk).

So, the search continues and I’d love to hear your recommendations. Do get in touch with your favourite place for a spot of Sunday Roast!

Restaurant Review - Magdalen Arms (follow up)

Yes, I know. It's been reviewed to within an inch of its life, by both local and national media. I reviewed it myself previously (here).

But bear with me. 

While Jay Rayner clearly had a very enjoyable meal, he might just kick himself when he realises he missed out on their best, most EPIC dish. 

As an East Oxford local, I've been to Magdalen Arms many times - for lunch, dinner, drinks and cake. I've sampled a wide variety of their dishes, each well-made and delicious. But they all pale by comparison.

So here it is folks, in all its meltingly soft, rich, meaty glory... the Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder!

Slow Roast Lamb Shoulder
£70 for 4/5 people. Lamb Neck, cooked and served the same way, is often available at £30 for 2ppl 

Served up with seasonal sides (luxurious dauphinoise spiced red cabbage on this occasion), this is serious, serious food porn.

The large version of the dish serves five people comfortably (trust me, we've shared it between four a few times and always taken a doggy bag home) and isn't always on the menu. On our last visit this was the case, but on asking it was available as a special. And mighty special it is too.

Glistening lamb, slowly cooked with carrots, celery and onion. So tender it yields without fight to a spoon. Sitting regally in a moat of cooking juices. No need for gravy or condiment, nor a glance in the direction of salt & pepper.

The dauphinoise are a glorious addition - creamy, buttery, well seasoned, comfort food at it's best. You know it's naughty but, go on then, just one more spoonful. I'll be a good girl tomorrow.

The greens or cabbage are a welcome addition, simply to break up the richness elsewhere. But you don't need much - you'll be too consumed by lust for the lamb.

If you decide to try the lamb yourself, be aware it takes around 40 minutes to reach your table. So order early, and make do with complimentary bread and butter (first portion is free, extra portions are £3.50) till the main event is brought out, rather ceremoniously, by a small convoy of waiters.

Service often comes into question here, for being far too casual. On this particular occasion though, we found the service to be perfectly attentive and helpful. It's a casual atmosphere anyway, so don't expect front of house staff in crisp matching outfits. It was almost a breakthrough to be asked if we'd like further drinks during our meal.

Overall score: 10 - without doubt, their finest dish.

Family friendly and relaxed, Magdalen Arms also serve some good vegetarian options - but portions can run out fast. The website is still incomplete (after several years), so you will need to book by phone.

Read my previous review in full here.

Magdalen Arms
Iffley Road
Oxford
OX4 1SJ
Twitter: @magdalen_arms
Facebook: N/A
Website: www.magdalenarms.com
Phone: 01865 243159

Oxfordshire's Best Sunday Roast

The benchmark was set high at The Feathered Nest Country Inn

So, it's started. The nights have drawn in, the heating's on, and I'm craving warm, hearty, comfort food. Big stews, warm soup, but more importantly - roast dinners. I can picture it now, people across the land popping yorkies in the oven and crossing their fingers, hoping they rise. 

Growing up, the good old Sunday roast was a weekly occurrence in our house, not these days though. I do cook the odd roast dinner, but we love going out as a family at the weekend to grab a spot of food... it's an added bonus that someone else does the washing up! 

So, this winter, I've set myself the challenge of tracking down 'Oxfordshire's Best Sunday Roast'. I'm looking for that perfect piece of meat, the grandest Yorkshire pub, glistening gravy and ravishing roasties. 

BUT...I need YOUR help! 

The benchmark was set incredibly high, prior to the blog, in September 2012, when I sampled the incredible roast beef at The Feathered Nest Inn (check out the header pic!). I'll have to revisit for a full review, but have yet to find a rival, despite sampling several other local roasts. I've received a few recommendations, but I need MORE. If you have a great local pub or restaurant serving up stunning roast dinners, or if you've recently visited somewhere that does, then please comment below (leaving your name), or email me at foodieontour@yahoo.co.uk with the details. Pictures would be great too - from the biggest yorkie to the most blushing beef - I'd love to see them. 

You can follow the search on here, or via Twitter with #OxSundayBest. Tweet me your recommendations or pics @FoodieOnTour.

Let the search begin!

Foodie x